How to Remove Are Tonneau Cover: A Practical Step-by-Step Guide
Most ARE tonneau covers can be removed by releasing the interior clamps, disconnecting any wiring or gas struts, and lifting the cover off the truck bed with help. The exact process depends on whether the cover is a hinged fiberglass model, a folding hard cover, or a powered or accessory-equipped version.
You are probably trying to take the cover off without bending the frame, damaging the truck’s bed rails, breaking a latch, or pulling loose an electrical connection. That goal sounds simple, but there is no single removal method for every ARE product. A hinged cover may use two or more clamp assemblies, while a folding model can have separate panel hinges, cables, support arms, or brackets that must be handled in a particular order.
This guide explains how to identify the cover, prepare the truck, locate the mounting hardware, release clamps safely, disconnect struts and accessories, and lift and store the cover correctly. It also covers common problems such as seized clamps, adhesive weather seals, misaligned hardware, bed-rail accessories, and covers that are too large for one person to handle. By the end, you will know which parts to inspect, when removal is a two-person job, how to avoid damage during reinstallation, and when a truck accessory professional is the safer choice.
Identify the ARE Tonneau Cover Before Removing It
The first step is to determine what type of ARE tonneau cover is installed. Look at the exterior shape and then inspect the inside of the bed, because the visible lid alone may not reveal how it is attached.
ARE has produced and sold several styles of truck-bed covers, and hardware can vary with the truck model, bed length, installation date, and optional equipment. A removal procedure that works for a simple hinged fiberglass cover may not apply to a folding hard cover or a cover with powered locks.
Hinged fiberglass covers
A hinged fiberglass cover usually opens from the rear and is supported by gas struts or lift cylinders. It may be attached to the truck with clamps along the bed rails and may also have a front hinge or pivot arrangement.
Some hinged covers are removed by releasing clamps and lifting the cover straight up. Others use hardware that stays attached to the cover or the truck, so do not force the lid upward until you have inspected both sides and the front edge.
Folding hard covers
A folding hard cover is divided into two or more rigid sections joined by hinges. It may have rear clamps, front mounting brackets, support straps, prop rods, or cables that hold the folded cover in place.
Before removing one, unfold it if the manufacturer’s hardware allows that position, or secure the folded sections so they cannot swing. A folded cover can shift its center of gravity and become unexpectedly heavy at the rear.
Powered, locking, or accessory-equipped covers
Some installations include electric locks, interior lighting, third-brake-light wiring, remote-release components, bed lights, or other accessories. These additions create an extra removal step: the electrical connection must be identified and disconnected before the cover is lifted away.
Never pull on a wire to separate a connector. Trace the wire to its plug, release the connector’s locking tab if present, and protect the loose ends from contact with water or metal during the rest of the work.
Check Compatibility and Installation Details First
Before touching the clamps, confirm that the cover belongs to the truck and note how it was installed. The important details include the truck’s make, model, model year, bed length, bed-rail configuration, and any accessories mounted near the cover.
A cover may have been transferred from another truck or modified after installation. If the cover does not sit evenly, has mismatched clamps, or contains drilled brackets that do not look factory-standard, assume that the removal process may differ from the original installation instructions.
Look for the model label and hardware pattern
Check the inside of the cover, the front underside, and the latch area for a model label or serial information. You may also find installation instructions in the glove box, truck documentation, or the paperwork left by the original installer.
Count the clamps and note their locations. Common attachment points include the front corners, the rear corners, and intermediate positions along the bed sides, but the exact arrangement is not universal.
Inspect truck-bed accessories
Bedliners, rail caps, tie-down cleats, toolbox brackets, bed extenders, and cargo-management systems can interfere with removal. A clamp may be hidden behind a bedliner edge or positioned beneath a rail accessory.
Do not remove a cover by loosening only the hardware that is easy to reach. An unseen clamp can remain loaded while the cover is lifted, causing the cover to twist or damaging the bed rail.
Determine whether the cover is bonded or sealed
Most removable covers use mechanical hardware, but weather seals and foam tape can adhere firmly to painted surfaces or bed rail caps. If the cover resists lifting after all clamps are released, inspect for seal adhesion rather than immediately applying more force.
Cutting or peeling a seal may affect water resistance during reinstallation. If the seal is damaged, plan to replace it with the correct type of automotive weatherstrip instead of relying on household tape or caulk.
Gather the Right Tools and Assistance
You usually need basic hand tools rather than specialized equipment, but the correct sizes matter. Using an adjustable wrench on a tight clamp nut can round the fastener or slip against the painted truck bed.
- Socket set or combination wrenches in the sizes used by the clamps
- Screwdrivers or trim tools for approved covers and clips
- Penetrating lubricant for exposed, corroded threads
- Work gloves and eye protection
- Painter’s tape and a marker for labeling wires or hardware
- Clean blankets, foam pads, or a purpose-built storage stand
- Plastic bags and labels for small fasteners
- A second person to support and carry the cover
Use a flashlight to inspect the underside of the cover and the inside of the bed. Good lighting helps you distinguish a clamp, hinge, strut bracket, wiring connector, and drain tube before you begin loosening anything.
For a large fiberglass cover, two people are the minimum practical crew in many situations. A third person can be useful when the truck has a long bed, the cover is bulky, or the storage location requires carrying it around a corner.
Why one-person removal is risky
Even a cover that feels manageable while open can be awkward once it is detached. The panel can rotate toward the truck, slide sideways, or drop onto the tailgate when the last clamp is released.
Trying to catch a falling cover can injure your hands and back. It can also allow the cover to strike the cab, tailgate, taillight, or pavement, so arrange support before removing the final attachment point.
Prepare the Truck and Cover for Removal
Park the truck on a level, stable surface with enough room on both sides and behind the vehicle. Set the parking brake, switch off the ignition, remove the key, and keep the tailgate in the position that gives you safe access to the hardware.
Clean loose dirt from the bed rails before you start. Grit under a clamp can make it difficult to tell whether the fastener is turning correctly, and dirt trapped between the cover and the rail can scratch the finish when the cover shifts.
Open or position the cover according to its design
For a hinged cover, open it far enough to access the inner mounting hardware while keeping the lid supported by its struts. Do not assume that gas struts can safely hold the cover once the clamps are loose; their purpose is to assist opening, not necessarily to secure a detached panel.
For a folding cover, follow the hardware’s normal folding path and use any support straps or retaining clips. Keep fingers away from hinge gaps while the sections move, because the panels can close as the load changes.
Protect the truck’s paint and glass
Place painter’s tape near, but not over, sensitive mounting areas if you want reference marks for reinstallation. Use clean blankets on the cab and on the surface where the cover will rest.
Do not place the cover directly on concrete, gravel, a truck tailgate, or a thin metal workbench. Fiberglass edges and finished exterior surfaces can chip or distort when concentrated weight rests on an unprotected point.
Photograph the original arrangement
Take clear photographs of every clamp, bracket, wire, strut, and seal before loosening anything. Include wide photos showing the cover’s position and close-ups showing the order of washers, spacers, and nuts.
These photos are especially useful if the cover is being stored for months or will be installed on another truck. Mark left and right parts rather than relying on memory, because similar-looking brackets may not be interchangeable.
Disconnect Electrical Connections Before Lifting
If the cover has a third brake light, powered lock, interior lamp, or other electrical feature, disconnect the wiring before the cover is free. The connector may be near the front of the bed, along one side, beneath the rear edge, or inside a protective loom.
Follow the wire from the cover to its first detachable connector. Separate the connector by its housing, not by the wire, and secure the truck-side harness so it cannot fall between the bed and frame or become pinched during storage.
Protect connectors and open terminals
Place a plastic cap, bag, or tape over exposed connectors if the truck will be driven without the cover. The protection should keep out water and dirt without permanently bonding to the connector.
If removing the cover leaves an unused third-brake-light circuit, confirm that the truck’s original lighting remains legal and functional for your configuration. Do not bypass or alter safety lighting casually; if the wiring is integrated into another system, professional diagnosis may be appropriate.
Label aftermarket wiring
Aftermarket installations may include inline fuses, crimp connectors, ground wires, or switches that are not part of the cover’s basic mounting system. Label each connection before separating it.
Do not cut a wire simply because the plug will not pass through a hole. Look for a removable connector, a retaining clip, or a route that allows the harness to be detached without permanent modification.
Release Gas Struts, Support Arms, and Retaining Hardware
Gas struts and support arms must be handled before the cover is fully detached. A strut can push or pull the panel as soon as one end is released, particularly when the cover is open at a steep angle.
Support the cover with another person before disconnecting a strut. If the strut uses a spring clip over a ball stud, release the clip only as far as necessary and do not remove it completely unless the design requires that step.
Removing ball-socket gas struts
Many gas struts attach through a socket that snaps over a ball stud. A small retaining clip may be visible at the socket end, and a flat screwdriver can sometimes move the clip enough to free the socket.
Do not pry aggressively against the fiberglass shell or use the strut as a handle. If the socket is seized, apply a small amount of suitable lubricant to the joint and work it gently while the cover is supported.
Removing bolt-on support arms
Some covers use bolts, pins, or brackets rather than gas struts. Remove the retaining pin or nut while a second person controls the cover’s movement.
Keep the bolts, washers, spacers, and clips together in a labeled bag. Missing spacers can change the cover’s alignment and create leaks or latch problems when the unit is installed again.
Do not puncture or modify a gas strut
A gas strut is a pressurized component and should not be drilled, cut, heated, or crushed. If it is bent, leaking, or unable to support the cover, replace it with the correct length and force rating rather than improvising a support.
Locate and Loosen Every Mounting Clamp
With wiring and support hardware handled, locate all mounting clamps or brackets inside the bed. A clamp usually grips the underside of the bed rail or a rail-mounted bracket, while a threaded bolt and nut provide the tightening force.
Loosen each clamp gradually instead of fully removing one side first. Alternating between left and right sides reduces twisting and makes it easier to tell whether the cover is free.
Common clamp locations
- Near the front corners of the bed
- Near the tailgate or rear corners
- Along the center sections of the bed rails
- Under rail caps or behind bedliner edges
- Near hinge brackets or folding-panel supports
Use a flashlight to verify that the clamp has actually opened away from the rail. A nut may turn while the clamp plate stays engaged because the bolt is spinning or the hardware is corroded.
Loosen clamps in a controlled sequence
- Have a helper support the cover and watch its movement.
- Loosen the front and rear clamps on one side slightly.
- Repeat the same process on the opposite side.
- Continue alternating until the clamp plates no longer grip the bed rail.
- Check the front, rear, and center areas for hidden attachments.
Do not lift the cover after only the accessible clamps are loose. Run your hand carefully along the underside, where safe, or use a flashlight to confirm that no bracket, cable, or clamp remains attached.
Handle rusty or seized fasteners carefully
Apply penetrating lubricant to exposed threads and allow it time to work. Protect painted surfaces from overspray and wipe away excess before it spreads onto the weather seal.
If the fastener still will not move, use the correct socket and steady pressure rather than jerking the tool. Heat near fiberglass, wiring, weather seals, and painted truck panels can cause damage, so a professional should handle heavily seized hardware when ordinary methods fail.
Separate the Cover from the Truck
Once every clamp, hinge, strut, wire, and retaining device has been released, lift the cover straight up and away from the truck with at least one helper. Keep the cover level whenever possible to prevent its weight from shifting toward a corner.
Before lifting, ask the helper to confirm that the tailgate, cab, and bed rails are clear. Move slowly, and stop immediately if the cover catches; resistance usually means that a fastener, wire, seal, or bracket has been missed.
Removing a hinged cover
Stand at the sides or use the manufacturer’s designated lifting areas rather than pulling on the latch handle, spoiler, window, or gas strut. Lift the rear or front edge according to the hinge design, then move the cover away from the truck without dragging it over the bed rails.
Some hinged covers may remain connected at a front pivot even after side clamps are released. If the cover will not lift vertically, inspect the front hinge arrangement and look for a retaining pin or bolt instead of applying force.
Removing a folding cover
Secure the folded sections before lifting. If the cover has support straps, keep them attached until the unit is in a stable position, unless the straps themselves prevent removal.
Two people should lift from opposite sides while keeping the folded sections aligned. Do not allow the cover to unfold while carrying it, because sudden movement can strain the hinges and make the load difficult to control.
Move the cover to a prepared storage area
Carry the cover to a padded, dry, level location. Rest it on its intended support points, not on the latch hardware, exterior corners, glass, spoiler, or painted top surface.
Do not stack heavy objects on top of it. Fiberglass shells can flex or crack under concentrated loads, and folding covers can develop hinge or panel damage if stored with uneven support.
Inspect the Truck and Cover After Removal
After the cover is off, inspect both the truck and the cover before putting away the hardware. This is the best time to find a damaged seal, cracked bracket, loose clamp, or wiring problem that could become a larger issue during the next installation.
Inspect the truck bed
- Check bed-rail paint for scratches, dents, or clamp impressions.
- Look for missing washers, loose nuts, or hardware left inside the bed.
- Inspect the tailgate seal and corners for pinching or tears.
- Confirm that no wiring is hanging near the exhaust, tires, tailgate, or cargo.
- Check whether bed-rail caps or liners shifted during removal.
Minor clamp marks may be cosmetic, but deep dents or exposed bare metal should not be ignored. Touch up damaged paint with a compatible product after cleaning and drying the area to reduce the risk of corrosion.
Inspect the cover
- Look for cracks around hinge mounts, latch areas, and strut brackets.
- Check that clamps are straight and their threads are not damaged.
- Inspect weather seals for flattening, separation, or missing sections.
- Examine electrical connectors for corrosion, bent pins, or broken locks.
- Check hinges and folding joints for looseness or binding.
A crack near a mounting point deserves particular attention because the area carries repeated loads from opening, closing, road vibration, and clamping. Do not assume cosmetic fiberglass damage is harmless if it extends into a structural bracket.
Store the Cover Without Causing Damage
Proper storage prevents many problems that are later blamed on installation. Keep the cover indoors or under a breathable protective cover in a dry location where temperature swings, falling objects, and accidental contact are limited.
Support the cover at the points recommended for its shape. If no support system was supplied, use broad, padded supports that distribute weight instead of narrow sawhorse edges or hooks.
Store fiberglass covers flat or in an approved orientation
A hinged fiberglass cover should not be left leaning on one corner for long periods. Uneven support can stress the shell and create warping that affects fit and latch alignment.
Keep the finish clean and dry before covering it. Avoid airtight plastic wrapping when moisture could be trapped against the surface, because condensation can affect finishes, seals, wiring, and hardware.
Store folding covers with hinges protected
Do not place a folding cover where the hinge line bears the full weight. Support the panels evenly and keep the cover from being forced beyond its normal folded position.
Store loose clamps, struts, brackets, and wiring with the cover in labeled containers. A simple label such as “front left” or “rear right” can prevent reversed hardware and unnecessary adjustment later.
Common Problems That Make Removal Difficult
The most common removal problems are not usually caused by the shell itself. They come from hidden hardware, corrosion, accessory interference, adhesive seals, or a previous installation that was modified.
The cover will not lift after the clamps are loose
Check for a remaining clamp, front hinge pin, support arm, electrical wire, or adhesive weather seal. Look along the front edge and under the bed-rail caps before applying additional lifting force.
If a seal is stuck, warm it gently in mild conditions and work a plastic trim tool under the edge. Avoid metal pry bars, screwdrivers against painted surfaces, and solvents that can stain the fiberglass finish or soften the seal.
A clamp spins instead of loosening
The bolt may be turning with the nut, or the clamp may be binding against the rail. Hold the bolt head or clamp body with the correct tool while loosening the nut from the other side.
If the threads are stripped, stop before the hardware breaks inside the bed area. Replacement clamps are generally safer and less expensive than repairing a damaged bed rail or drilling out a broken fastener.
The cover shifts when one clamp is released
This usually means the cover is carrying uneven tension or is not adequately supported. Retighten the clamp lightly, add a helper or support, and release the remaining hardware in smaller alternating steps.
Never stand in the path of a cover that may slide toward you. Keep hands on safe exterior edges and maintain control from the sides.
Wiring does not have a visible connector
Trace the harness farther into the bed or behind the tailgate area. An installer may have routed the connector under trim or secured it with clips that conceal the separation point.
If the wiring appears spliced directly into the truck’s harness, photograph the connections and consider having an automotive electrical technician separate them. Cutting blindly can disable other lights or create a difficult-to-diagnose fault.
The gas strut will not release
Support the cover so the strut is not under excessive side load. Inspect the socket and retaining clip, then use the correct release method for that fitting.
Do not twist the strut cylinder, bend the rod, or lever against the fiberglass. A damaged strut may fail later even if it seems to work after removal.
Safety Risks to Avoid During Removal
Removing a truck-bed cover is a manageable project, but the cover’s size, weight, and awkward shape create real injury and property-damage risks. The safest process controls movement before the final fastener is released.
- Do not work under an unsupported open cover.
- Do not remove the last clamp while standing behind the cover.
- Do not lift a large cover alone to save time.
- Do not use the tailgate as a permanent work platform if it is not designed for that load.
- Do not place fingers in hinge gaps or between clamps and bed rails.
- Do not use heat near wiring, fiberglass, seals, fuel vapors, or painted panels.
- Do not drive the truck with loose wiring or unsecured mounting hardware.
- Do not assume a gas strut will prevent a detached cover from falling.
Wear gloves that provide grip without being so bulky that you lose control of small hardware. Eye protection is useful when working beneath the bed rail, where rust flakes, dirt, and lubricant can fall.
When to stop and get professional help
Professional help is sensible when the cover is cracked around a mounting point, the hardware is severely seized, the installation has extensive wiring modifications, or the unit cannot be safely supported by two people.
A truck accessory shop can also help when the cover has been permanently bonded, the bed rails are damaged, or the removal may affect an integrated lock or alarm system. The cost of assistance is usually lower than repairing a dropped cover or damaged truck bed.
Reinstall the ARE Cover Correctly
Reinstallation is not simply the reverse of removal. The cover must sit squarely, the seals must contact evenly, the latches must align, and the clamps must be tightened without distorting the shell or bed rails.
Use the photographs taken before removal and keep a helper supporting the cover while the first clamps are positioned. Start all hardware by hand so cross-threaded nuts or misaligned brackets are identified before tightening.
Set the cover in its original position
Place the cover gently on the bed rails or hinge points, keeping the front and rear gaps even. Confirm that the tailgate can open and close without contacting the cover.
Check that the seal is not folded, stretched, or trapped beneath a clamp. A misplaced seal can cause leaks and may push the cover upward enough to interfere with latches.
Tighten clamps gradually
Snug the clamps in an alternating pattern from side to side. Do not fully tighten one corner before the other corners are positioned, because that can pull the cover out of alignment.
Use the manufacturer’s specified torque if it is available for the hardware. If no specification is available, tighten firmly enough to hold the cover securely without crushing the bed rail, deforming the clamp, or compressing the seal excessively.
Reconnect and test electrical features
Reconnect every labeled connector and secure the harness away from moving parts. Test the third brake light, powered lock, interior lamp, and any other accessory before closing the cover completely.
After testing, inspect the wiring again with the cover open and closed. A harness that works while stationary can still be pinched when the tailgate moves or the cover folds.
Check fit, latches, and water control
Operate the latches several times and confirm that they engage without excessive force. The cover should not require pushing down hard on one corner to make the latch catch.
After a gentle water test, inspect the bed for leaks, especially around front corners, hinges, latches, and the tailgate seal. Water entry may indicate a shifted seal or alignment problem rather than a defect in the cover itself.
Removal Costs and Time Expectations
A straightforward, mechanically clamped cover may take roughly 30 to 90 minutes to remove when the hardware is accessible and two people are available. A cover with seized fasteners, extensive wiring, bed accessories, or adhesive seals can take substantially longer.
The direct cost may be minimal if you already have the tools and a helper. Potential expenses include replacement clamps, weatherstrip, damaged connectors, gas struts, storage supports, or professional labor.
Do not choose a removal method solely because it appears faster. Cutting a seal, forcing a bracket, or removing a clamp with power tools may save a few minutes while creating a larger repair bill and making the cover harder to reinstall.
Misconceptions About Removing ARE Tonneau Covers
“Every ARE cover comes off by removing four clamps.”
Some covers may use four primary clamps, but others have additional clamps, hinge brackets, support arms, cables, or electrical connections. Count and inspect the actual hardware on your truck rather than relying on a general number.
“If the cover opens, it is ready to lift off.”
Opening the cover only gives access to the hardware. Struts, wiring, hinges, and clamps may still connect it to the truck, and releasing them without support can allow the cover to fall.
“A little flex is normal when prying it loose.”
Some seal resistance is normal, but significant flexing can crack fiberglass, loosen a bracket, or distort the cover. Resistance should prompt another inspection for missed attachments, not more leverage.
“Any replacement weatherstrip will work.”
Weatherstrip dimensions, adhesive backing, compression, and material affect fit and water control. Use a compatible automotive seal with the correct profile, and test the cover’s alignment before permanently replacing a large section.
“The cover can be stored anywhere if it is covered.”
A protective cover does not prevent warping from uneven support, impact damage, or moisture trapped against the finish. Storage orientation and broad, padded support are just as important as keeping dust away.
FAQ About How to Remove an ARE Tonneau Cover
How do you remove an ARE tonneau cover from a truck?
Release the mounting clamps, disconnect wiring and support hardware, then lift the cover away with a helper. The exact order depends on the cover style, so inspect for hidden hinges, gas struts, folding supports, and electrical connectors before lifting.
Can one person remove an ARE fiberglass tonneau cover?
One-person removal is not recommended for most full-size fiberglass covers. The panel can be wide, heavy, and difficult to control after the final clamp is released, creating a risk of injury or damage to the truck and cover.
Do I need to remove the gas struts before taking off the cover?
Usually, the gas struts or support arms must be disconnected before the cover is fully lifted away. Keep the cover supported while releasing them, and use the fitting’s retaining clip or pin rather than twisting the strut.
What should I do if the ARE tonneau cover is stuck to the bed rails?
Check for a missed clamp, hinge, wire, or retaining bracket before separating an adhered weather seal. If the seal is bonded to the rail, use a plastic trim tool carefully and expect to replace damaged weatherstrip before reinstalling the cover.
How can I remove a folding ARE hard cover safely?
Secure the folded panels, disconnect support straps or cables as required, and lift with two people. Keep the hinge sections aligned and prevent the cover from unfolding during carrying or storage.
Should I disconnect the truck battery before removing the cover wiring?
Disconnecting the battery may be appropriate for modified or powered wiring, but it is not automatically required for every cover. Identify the circuit first, follow the vehicle and accessory instructions, and avoid shorting exposed connectors against metal.
What if a clamp on my ARE cover will not loosen?
Use the correct tool, support the cover, and apply penetrating lubricant rather than forcing the hardware. If the fastener is stripped or severely corroded, a truck accessory professional can remove it without damaging the bed rail.
How should I store an ARE tonneau cover after removing it?
Store it indoors on broad, padded supports that distribute its weight evenly. Keep fiberglass covers from resting on corners or hardware, and protect folding covers from loads that stress the hinges or force the panels out of their normal position.
Conclusion: Remove the Cover Slowly and Support It Properly
Removing an ARE tonneau cover is usually a matter of identifying every attachment, disconnecting electrical and support hardware, loosening clamps evenly, and lifting with help. The major limitation is that ARE covers do not all use the same mounting system, so the actual hardware on the truck must take priority over a generic procedure.
Before starting, photograph the installation, prepare a safe storage area, and arrange a second person. If a clamp, hinge, seal, or wiring connection is unclear or severely damaged, stop and have a qualified truck accessory professional handle that part rather than risking the cover or the vehicle.
